Writing Assignment #7/8

Naples

Contradictions! We have thrown around the word so much this quarter I feel silly using it, but I can't define my impression of Naples any other way. I set off for Naples anticipating a dirty, fast-paced, and harsh city. These expectations, although somewhat informed, were rooted in the stereotypes that I'd read so much about and heard firsthand from Italians here in Rome. Although the divisions within Italy are both numerous and extreme, the north-south divide seems to be the most pronounced and deeply rooted in history. Southern inferiority is a common thread in most conversations about racism, social divisions, or even food or soccer. In "Images of the South" the author addresses the many layers of this dynamic, and says "These images are constructed within the North-South dialogue, but the Southerners are the first to believe them and appropriate them" (84). At first I applied this statement to the stereotypes about the illegal activity and lack of safety in the south. After having spent a few nights in Italy's South, I interpret this sentence differently. The Italians in the South do draw a line between themselves and the North; a clear, distinct line. But the Neapolitans are the most free spirited Italians I've come across. They do what they want, and seem to enjoy their status as the underdog. The Neapolitans don't think of themselves as inferior, but rather seem proud of their identity as the rebellious and anarchic ones.
Alexander Valentino was our charming, scruffy guide through the city. I was fascinated by Alexander, and intrigued by his views on Naples, Rome, and Italy as a whole. As someone who has lived in both Naples and Rome, he has a more informed perspective on the cultural differences. I learned a lot from Alexander. He talked to me about the Roma in Italy, and the way that they are perceived and accepted. According to Alexander, the further North you go in Italy, the more racist the people get. "Oh the Venetians! They're the worst!" My experiences in the North support this idea. Alexander described the Southerners as a more humane, empathetic people, "We don't believe in God. We believe in humans." He went on to say a few words about the corruption in the Catholic church; he's clearly not a big fan. Alexander was able to articulate in a way that I couldn't the energy and culture of the Roman people. He described the culture in Rome as one "with no meat". He talked about the general lack of culture in Rome due to its lack of a substantial core. "Rome is all periphery now. The historical center surrounded by periphery." He addressed an overall laziness that the Romans have developed due to their security as the historical center of Italy, of Europe. The food is notoriously bad in Rome, the waiters notoriously rude. Alexander described their mentality for me, "They think, 'If you don't want the food, the next tourist will.'" Everything he said about the Romans resounded with me; it was in many ways a relief to have someone put words to my general confusion and disappointment with the people of Rome, if I can even say "the people of Rome". I guess that is in a large part the problem; there is not a clearly defined people of Rome. As Alexander said, Rome is overrun. It is overrun by immigrants and tourists, and corrupted by its role as the 'golden child' of Italy. Rome embodies the idea of bella figura. Rome is undoubtedly full of rich history and art, but the true face of modern day Rome is far from the pretty facade.
It's hard to articulate what it is I liked so much about Naples. I'm sure Alexander Valentino added to my positive impression of the city, but there was something more. It was the little interactions with the waiters, shopkeepers, and people on the streets that struck me. After so many interactions with rude waiters and impatient shop-keepers, the kindness and compassion of the Neapolitans was a breathe of fresh air. The waiters were friendly, funny, and connectible. The shopkeepers were patient, approachable, and exuded a sort of calm that said to me, "I like you". I received so many small pieces of kindness from strangers while in the South of Italy. I can count on one hand how many times I've felt this sort of warmth while in Rome. Actually, I don't know that I can think of one. Alexander repeatedly told me that in Naples the people "love humanity". I couldn't agree more.

Returning to Rome was a mixture of emotions for me. I was happy to come home. Walking into the Campo and seeing Bruno standing there, staring off toward the Vatican, is always strangely comforting to me. But having the Naples trip behind me meant that the next "big thing" is the end.
Rome has grown a personality for me, I've humanized it in a way. I think of the difficult goodbyes I've had in my life with people I love; the days leading up to their departure, knowing that I won't see them again for weeks, months, or forever. It's a horrible, sickening feeling. I've felt that to some extent these past few days. Walking around Rome, thinking that it might be the last time I see that bakery or that street or that shop or that monument or that statue... it's sad. I think of the tendency to leave the hardest goodbye for last; to put it off until the very end, even to the point of avoiding the beloved person or thing, or in this case place, and as a result wasting time potentially spent together. The thought of leaving St. Peter's basilica and piazza is so horrible and sickening to me. Truly! I feel inexplicably connected to that place. Saying goodbye to St. Peter will be by far my hardest goodbye.